Slip-On Type Spacers

🧼 Step 1: Prep the Hub

• Lift the vehicle and secure with jack stands.
• Remove the wheel.
• Thoroughly clean the hub face using a wire brush — remove all rust, corrosion, and debris.
• Place the spacer on the hub — test fit for flush contact.
• ⚠️ If it rocks or does not sit fully flat, do not install. Check for burrs, rust, or fitment issues.

📏 Step 2: Confirm Wheel Bolt Length & Seat Type

• Use conical or ball seat lugs based on your wheel type. Improper seat types lead to loosening or uneven torque.
• Measure one OEM wheel bolt from the bottom of the seat to the end of the threads.
• Add your spacer thickness (in mm) to that measurement.
• Select extended bolts with that new length.
• Example: OEM bolt = 28mm, Spacer = 10mm → Use 38mm extended bolts, or the closest available size. Common sizes include 35, 40, 45, 50mm.
• Thread Engagement Rule: Minimum: 7 full turns (M12) / 8 full turns (M14), Less than that? Use longer bolts.

🛞 Step 3: Mount the Spacer and Wheel

• Install the spacer onto the clean hub.
• Place the wheel over the spacer — ensure everything is still hubcentric and aligned.
• Hand-thread the extended bolts into the hub using correct seat type.
• Torque all bolts to spec in a star pattern:
• Torque: 89–105 ft-lbs (based on vehicle specs)
• Recheck alignment and flush fit between the hub, spacer, and wheel.

🔁 Step 4: Final Safety Checks

• Spin the wheel by hand — it must rotate freely with no rubbing or vibration.
• After driving 50 miles, re-torque all bolts to spec.

🚫 Do NOT:

• Reuse factory-length bolts with slip-on spacers — unsafe thread engagement.
• Install if the spacer does not sit flush or center bore fit is loose.
• Use mismatched seat styles (e.g., ball seat bolts on conical seat wheels).
• Stack spacers.

 

Bolt-On Type Spacers

🧼 Step 1: Prep the Hub

• Lift the vehicle and secure with jack stands.
• Remove the wheel.
• Thoroughly clean the hub face using a wire brush — remove all rust, corrosion, and debris.
• Place the spacer on the hub — test fit for flush contact.
• ⚠️ If it rocks or does not sit fully flat, do not install. Check for burrs, rust, or fitment issues.

🔩 Step 2: Mount the Spacer to the Hub

• Align the bolt holes of the spacer to the vehicle hub.
• Thread the included low-profile nuts onto the vehicle’s factory studs.
• Optional: Apply a drop of blue thread locker to each factory stud before installing the nuts (not required, but good practice).
• Torque each nut to 85–95 ft-lbs in a star pattern, ensuring even clamping force.
• ⚠️ DO NOT overtighten. Using impact tools here can damage threads or warp the spacer.

🛞 Step 3: Mount the Wheel to the Spacer

• Place the wheel onto the new studs of the spacer.
• Hand-thread your wheel’s lug nuts onto the spacer’s studs.
• Torque to 89–105 ft-lbs, based on your wheel and vehicle spec — again, in a star pattern, followed by a circular pass.
• If you're using aftermarket wheels, make sure you're using the correct seat type (cone vs. ball).

🔁 Step 4: Final Safety Checks

• Rotate the wheel by hand to ensure no interference or rubbing.
• Double check that all hardware is fully seated and torqued.
• After driving 50 miles, retorque your wheel lug nuts to spec.
  (Do NOT retorque the spacer-to-hub nuts — only the wheel.)

🚫 Do NOT: 

• Use impact guns to tighten spacer-to-hub hardware.
• Install the spacers if the spacer spacer does not sit flush or the center bore fitment is loose.
• Stack spacers — it’s unsafe and compromises load ratings.

 

👍 Status Performance Delivers:

• Hubcentric fitment = no vibration
• Built-in studs = proper thread engagement
• High-load rated designs for trucks, SUVs, and performance builds
• Coverage for Asian, European, and American platforms
• Black hard-anodized finish for corrosion resistance and a clean install look